Oliviero Toscani, the visionary behind Benetton’s provocative advertising campaigns that revolutionised the fashion world, passed away at 82, as confirmed by his family on Monday. Admitted to a Cecina hospital near his Tuscan residence last Friday in critical condition, Toscani reportedly lost consciousness before his passing.
“With profound sorrow, we announce that on January 13, 2025, our beloved Oliviero has embarked on his next journey,” his wife Kirsti and three children shared in an emotional statement.
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Toscani had revealed in a candid August interview with ‘Corriere della Sera’ that he was battling amyloidosis, a rare and incurable condition causing protein build-up that impacts vital organs. He detailed his year-long struggle, having lost 40 kilograms, with accompanying photos reflecting his frail state.
Born on February 28, 1942, Toscani inherited a passion for photography from his father, refining his craft in Zurich. His early career saw him working with renowned fashion magazines and launching the careers of top models, including Monica Bellucci. However, it was during his tenure as Benetton’s creative director in the 1980s that Toscani became a household name.
Toscani’s campaigns for Benetton pushed boundaries, showcasing images such as a dying AIDS patient and war-torn clothing from Bosnia, sparking global dialogue and cementing the “United Colors of Benetton” as a bold, socially-conscious brand. His controversial 2000 campaign spotlighting U.S. death row inmates garnered global attention but ultimately led to his departure from Benetton amidst intense debate over its moral boundaries.
“Clothing is my medium to raise awareness on pressing social issues,” Toscani stated in a Reuters interview, defending his approach against conventional advertising norms. “Traditional ads promise beauty, power, and success – illusions that simply don’t exist.”
After a 17-year hiatus, Toscani reunited with Benetton in 2017 to reinvigorate the brand amidst rising fast-fashion competition. Yet, his relationship with the company ended again in 2020 following remarks downplaying the tragic 2018 Morandi Bridge collapse in Genoa, overseen by a Benetton-linked firm.
Despite his controversies, Toscani’s legacy remains unparalleled. His work was celebrated in the 2024 exhibition ‘Photography and Provocation’ at Zurich’s Museum für Gestaltung, highlighting his transformative impact on advertising and visual storytelling.
