On January 25, 2025, Sabyasachi Mukherjee marked a majestic 25 years in the craft of transforming the fashion landscape of India. From fighting personal battles to building one of the most successful and prominent fashion houses across the world, the narrative of Sabyasachi speaks of thrilling inspiration. Today, his name is synonymous with luxury, heritage, and the fine art of craftsmanship; international celebrities, royalty, and celebrities across the world put it all down to don his work of art. His story is not only a fine example of an individual’s power to overcome personal adversity and resilience but also grit in terms of how great an artist he is.
Struggles that shaped his vision
Sabyasachi Mukherjee was born in Kolkata, India, in 1974, to a middle-class family. His father, a refugee from Bangladesh, had experienced his own share of hardship when the jute industry began to decline and plastic overtook it as a preferred material. This loss of his father’s job deeply affected the Mukherjee family, and financial instability became a defining feature of Sabyasachi’s early years. His childhood was marked by these struggles, but they also played a critical role in shaping his character and his creative vision.
As a child, Mukherjee was deeply introspective. He found solace in the world of art and design, and his imagination was fueled by his exposure to a variety of cultural influences from Kolkata’s rich history. However, as he grew older, he realized that life was not going to be an easy ride. His academic journey was fraught with challenges, and he was not particularly inclined towards traditional education. This led him to find an alternative path, a path that would eventually lead to the world of fashion.
Mukherjee enrolled at the prestigious National Institute of Design (NID) in Ahmedabad, but his personal struggles continued to weigh on him. The internal battles of self-doubt, financial insecurity, and the pressure of living up to his own expectations began to take a toll. In fact, these challenges pushed him to a dark place, and he attempted suicide during this time. Reflecting on this period, Sabyasachi once admitted that depression, though a painful part of his life, gave him clarity and insight. It allowed him to find purpose in his creative work and helped him build the resilience that would serve him well in the years to come.
Mukherjee once shared that if he hadn’t faced depression, he might have followed a different career path, possibly working for a company like Google in San Francisco, instead of becoming a fashion mogul. But through this pain came a realization: he was destined to create. He famously stated, “I was depressed, and I tried to kill myself. I was unconscious, and my mom gave me a slap… Depression is as common as common cold. If you’re not depressed, you’re not normal. My depression gave me a lot of clarity.” This period of struggle ultimately led to one of the most successful fashion careers in India.
The birth of Sabyasachi’s empire
Mukherjee’s entry into the fashion world was anything but smooth. He began his career in the early 1990s, when the Indian fashion industry was still in its nascent stages. Yet, his distinctive aesthetic, which blended Indian heritage with contemporary elements, set him apart from his contemporaries. His designs were not just about creating beautiful garments, they told stories. His use of traditional textiles, intricate embroidery, and a fusion of global and local styles made him stand out.
In 1999, Sabyasachi Mukherjee opened his first studio in Kolkata, an important milestone that marked the beginning of his entrepreneurial journey. The brand soon gained recognition not only for its unique creations but also for its ability to bring a modern twist to traditional Indian clothing. His bridal collections, in particular, garnered attention, with rich, luxurious fabrics, ornate jewelry, and elaborate motifs that appealed to the Indian elite. His designs were more than just wedding wear; they were a celebration of India’s cultural heritage and craftsmanship.
As his reputation grew, Sabyasachi’s designs began to attract the attention of high-profile clients, including Bollywood celebrities, which played a pivotal role in his rise to fame. Celebrities like Amitabh Bachchan, Rani Mukerji, Priyanka Chopra, and Deepika Padukone became regular patrons of his creations, turning his designs into a symbol of status and sophistication.
However, while his creative brilliance was evident, the path to building a global fashion empire was far from easy. In an industry known for its cutthroat competition and volatile market dynamics, Mukherjee faced numerous hurdles. But he was determined to carve a space for his brand, refusing to follow conventional rules. His commitment to producing high-quality, handmade, and authentic products meant that he didn’t cut corners for the sake of mass production. This commitment to craftsmanship became his signature and the driving force behind the success of his brand.
Sabyasachi’s resilience and his forward-moving business
Resilience is perhaps the defining theme of Mukherjee’s journey. From battling personal struggles to facing the challenges of running a fashion business in an unpredictable market, Mukherjee’s strength lies in his ability to adapt and grow. As his empire expanded, Mukherjee realized that the future of fashion lay not just in creativity, but also in smart business strategies.
In 2021, Mukherjee made a bold move by selling a 51% stake in his brand to Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail Limited (ABFRL) for ₹398 crore. This decision allowed Mukherjee to leverage ABFRL’s vast resources and market expertise while retaining creative control over his designs. Before this deal, Mukherjee owned 97% of his company, with the remaining 3% belonging to his father. The acquisition marked a significant turning point in his business journey, as it opened doors for greater scalability and expansion.
By 2020, Sabyasachi’s company had an estimated turnover of ₹275 crore, and the brand’s reach continued to grow. With ABFRL’s backing, Mukherjee’s expansion plans became more ambitious. While his expected turnover this year is ₹500 crore, according to The Week, the designer now aims to transform his brand into a global luxury powerhouse, with a target of achieving a $2 billion (₹ 17,000 crore) valuation by 2030. His focus is not just on creating stunning couture but also on building a robust business model that incorporates data-driven insights to optimize operations, enhance customer engagement, and streamline production.
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His jewellery business, which generates ₹150-175 crore annually, and his handbag line, which contributes over ₹60 crore, are also significant revenue streams. By expanding into various segments of the luxury market, Mukherjee has been able to diversify his business and increase his brand’s global appeal.
Commanding presence in the USA
Sabyasachi’s business success is not limited to India. In recent years, he has been expanding his presence internationally, particularly in the United States, where his brand has found a receptive market. In 2023, Sabyasachi opened his flagship store in New York City, marking a major milestone in his global expansion strategy. The store, located in the upscale neighborhood of Manhattan is a reflection of his vision to bring his creations to the world’s fashion capital.
The opening of the New York store was a carefully planned step in Mukherjee’s strategy to position his brand as a global luxury entity. The store is designed to reflect the grandeur and opulence of his creations, with intricate details, elegant interiors, and a curated selection of bridal and couture pieces. This move signifies his desire to appeal to international clients and take his brand to the next level.
His presence in the USA has been bolstered by collaborations with renowned figures in the fashion and entertainment industries. Bollywood stars like Priyanka Chopra and Deepika Padukone have frequently worn his creations on the international stage, bringing his brand to the attention of global audiences. In addition, international icons have been spotted wearing Sabyasachi designs, further cementing his status as a designer with global appeal.
Endorsements from celebrities: Sabyasachi’s Influence
Sabyasachi’s influence extends beyond the fashion industry. His designs have been embraced by Bollywood and Hollywood celebrities alike, making him a favorite among A-listers. From brides walking down the aisle in his exquisite lehengas to movie stars showcasing his couture on the red carpet, Sabyasachi’s creations have become a symbol of luxury and sophistication.
Celebrities like Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez, and Mindy Kaling have also donned his jewellery and ensembles, further increasing his visibility in the international market. These endorsements not only validate his talent but also contribute significantly to his brand’s desirability. Christian Louboutin, the legendary French designer, once expressed a profound admiration for Sabyasachi, describing their professional relationship as “very childish,” yet mirroring each other in many ways. Louboutin shared, “We are very similar people. I feel I can see the soul of Sabya. Especially when he is questioning himself. We can both close our eyes to search for clarity and emerge with near similar responses. With focus and clarity. We both follow our voice, without which we feel lost. It is a very childish relationship, but we mirror each other in many ways. His Indian work is exceptional in my eyes. And our shoes and handbags are an Indian version of French work, so to say. Both of us own large companies. We are not accustomed to thinking out of our zones. Like me, he is brand-driven before being creativity-driven. His name is his brand, he is the most important representative of his brand, that’s like me.”
Bollywood star Alia Bhatt, who attended Sabyasachi’s 25th anniversary show, shared her admiration for the designer on Instagram, writing, “25 years of crafting dreams, preserving heritage, and redefining excellence. To me, Sabya, you are more than a designer—you’re a visionary and a storyteller. I’ve been privileged to wear your creations over the years, from global red carpets to personal milestones (wedding memories I’ll cherish forever). Your work isn’t just fashion—it’s art, blending tradition and innovation with unmatched finesse. You once said, ‘I believe that the best fashion comes from a deep understanding of culture and heritage.’ And that’s exactly what you do. Your commitment to Indian craftsmanship and culture is an inspiration to us all.”
A legacy of resilience and innovation
Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s story is one of triumph over adversity, of using personal struggles as a stepping stone toward creative brilliance and business success. His journey from battling depression and financial instability to becoming a global fashion icon is a testament to his resilience and unwavering commitment to his craft. Today, Sabyasachi is not only a designer but a visionary, building a brand that blends heritage with modernity and continues to inspire the world. As he celebrates 25 years in the industry, his influence and legacy are only set to grow, with his sights firmly set on a future that reflects his ambition and creative genius.
